Through this training, participants discover not only the techniques of a master pleater, but also a way of thinking about materials, structuring textiles, and imagining volumes. More than just know-how, it is a culture of craftsmanship that Karen Grigorian shares, with a constant focus on keeping this centuries-old tradition alive and evolving within the contemporary world of design.

Upon completion of the training, participants will be able to:

Dans son atelier, Karen Grigorian uses a rare expertise: the technique of artisanal pleating carried out entirely by hand. Using cardboard molds called “forms,” which he designs himself, he enables the creation of a wide variety of pleats: sunburst, upright, flat, accordion, flower… These molds accommodate various materials such as fabric, leather, and even metal wires such as bronze.

Once the textile is placed inside the mold, the whole is heated in a high-temperature oven, then left to rest so that the pleat permanently retains its shape. This process, combining art, geometry, and technical precision, gives rise to unique pieces intended for haute couture, luxury leather goods, design, or stage costumes.

During this training course, participants will learn to reproduce certain stages of the process using irons, an accessible tool that will allow them to continue experimenting with and deepening these techniques at home.

Beyond the technical aspect, Karen Grigorian conveys a true philosophy of his craft, rooted in a passion for artisanal work. He values rigor, patience, and attention to detail, while encouraging the exploration of new forms. His artisanal approach stands firmly against fast-production logic, in favor of authenticity and quality.

Programme

Day 1

Introduction & First Classic Pleats

Morning and afternoon

• Presentation of the hand-crafted artisanal pleating technique
• Historical overview and applications in fashion, leather goods, design, costume, etc.
• Introduction to classic pleats: flat pleat, accordion pleat
• Study of basic principles: symmetry, regularity, fabric orientation
• Creation of the first cardboard molds by each participant
• First pleating test on fabric using the molds created

Day 2

Advanced Classic Pleats

Morning and afternoon

• Discovery of the sunburst pleat and its variations
• Design of more complex molds adapted to radiating pleats
• Practical work: each participant creates their own sunburst mold
• Fabric preparation and positioning inside the molds
• Application of heat (using irons) to set the pleats
• Group discussion on results and technical adjustments

Day 3

Refinement and Autonomy

Morning and afternoon

• Review of the pleats studied and resolution of technical difficulties
• Work on precision, repeatability, and shape adjustments
• Pleating with the molds created
• Discussion on fabric choices, textures, and alternative materials
• Advice on continuing the practice at home with simple tools

Day 4

Exploration of Decorative and Patterned Pleats

Morning and afternoon

• Introduction to decorative molds: organic, irregular, asymmetrical shapes
• Creation of original molds based on drawings, patterns, or free forms
• Work on graphic composition through pleating
• Pleating fabrics with decorative molds
• Analysis of visual results and material effects obtained

Day 5

Personal Project and Closing

Morning and afternoon

• Creation of the mold, fabric selection, and final pleating
• Presentation of completed projects to the group
• Educational feedback and personalized advice to continue experimenting at home
• Closing of the training and discussion on application perspectives
• Workshop clean-up

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Karen Grigorian
Master Pleatter

Karen Grigorian is one of the very few master pleaters still practicing in France. Heir to a demanding, often overlooked, craft, he is today one of its most dedicated guardians. Arriving from Armenia in the 1990s, he settled in Paris and began his career at the Gérard Lognon atelier, a leading name in haute couture pleating. There, he honed his skills for over fourteen years, collaborating with the most prestigious fashion houses. But when the atelier was acquired by Chanel, he chose to leave, determined to preserve his independence and the freedom of his work.

In 2014, he founded La Maison du Pli, a family workshop where he is giving new impetus to his craft. Using hand-crafted cardboard molds, he creates intricate pleats—sunburst, accordion, fan, floral—which he applies to materials as varied as textiles, leather, and metal. This meticulous work, a blend of technique and poetry, demands perfect mastery of gesture, timing, and heat.

Karen Grigorian embodies a vision of the craft founded on rigor, knowledge transfer, and research. He collaborates with the worlds of luxury, fashion, design, theater, and leather goods, while remaining true to artisanal tradition.

Discreet, he prefers working behind the scenes to seeking media attention. Yet, behind this reserve, one discovers a passionate craftsman for whom pleating is much more than a skill: a language, an art of controlled repetition, a link between memory and creation.

Since 2017, he has also been sharing his expertise, notably in Denmark, where he trains costume designers and stylists for the Royal Danish Theatres. Many creators now come to him to experiment with new materials: wax, algae, plastic, animal intestines… Nothing escapes his curiosity or the rigor of his gaze.

• Classroom, multipurpose room, workshops with professional equipment
• Materials provided
• Individual and collaborative work
• Workshop sessions
• Active participation and experimentation by participants are encouraged

• Suivi collectif et personnalisé des travaux, points réguliers
• Autoévaluation des acquis techniques
• Restitution collective
• Feuille d’émargement par demi-journée
• Attestation de réalisation délivrée par Campus MaNa